PassagePlus

PassagePlus



PassagePlus is a passage planning, navigation and ship tracking application aimed at the leisure sailing market. To the best of my knowledge it is the only Mac OS X application compatible with the UK Hydrographic Office's ARCS charts.

Menu

* Display chart

* Display GPS position of your boat on chart (if GPS is connected)

* Display related data, e.g. COG, SOG, DTW, etc.

* Display AIS data as an overlay on the chart (if AIS receiver is connected)

* Import/create and store way-points

* Import/create and store routes

* Show track (assuming GPS is connected), save it, export it (for printing, etc)

* Shows bearings and distances between points on chart

* Dead reckoning and three-point fixes without a GPS

* Shapes a course to steer allowing for leeway and tide

* Projects position forward based on current course and speed

* Automatically creates a log if GPS is connected

Stern Glands

Stern Glands

The conventional stern gland is usually part of the inboard shaft bearing assembly and its sole job is to keep the water out whilst allowing the shaft to turn. They fall into two main types:-

- "PATENT" TYPES" - These do not need packing, are supposed to last for "life". They often have a telltale bottle. There are a number of designs like Deep Sea Seals & Carbon ring seal. Will they seal if the shaft is bent? Dunno....

Some modern, non-packed, stern glands have an oil bottle attached by a short hose. This is NOT FOR LUBRICATION - it is a telltale - in case the gland starts to leak and shows up by either loss of oil or water appearing in the oil.

- "PACKED TYPES" - In this type (the vast majority), the shaft disappears either through a large, longish nut, or through a sleeve which is held in place by two nuts/bolts. These glands have a "tacky" rope like material inside them which is squeezed up by the big nut or sleeve to stop leaks.


Packing Stern Glands - First of all you must recognise that there are many different types of non-packed stern glands being fitted today and if one of these is leaking you may well be faced with taking the boat out of the water and either pulling back or totally removing the propeller shaft. Some packed glands are associated with a "rubber hose" as part of the assembly, so the fact that there is "rubber" present cannot be taken as any of indication of gland type.

Locating leaks. If a boat is taking water from the general area of the stern gland many people's first reaction is to tighten the gland, however there are other things that should be checked. Clean the black "gunge" from the face of the gland and inspect the hole from which the shaft emerges. If the shaft is not leaving the gland concentrically with the hole and gland (as shown on the right) the gland is worn and may never stop leaking for any length of time. On boats with flexible engine mounts this is often because the rubber mounts have collapsed with age and the engine has not been re-aligned with the shaft every few years. If the mounts collapse on a GRP boat and the situation is ignored the shaft can wear right through the bronze shaft log. This creates a leak (with a sharp edged to the hole) at point Y. Likewise if the rubber hose on this gland is not checked for condition it can perish and leak. If it splits there is a good chance that the boat will sink. If you have an adjustable gland a slight bow in the shaft or even an engine "jumping about a bit" can cause the ball joint to work loose and then the O rings get damaged and the joint leaks.

Adjusting the gland. Convention has it that a gland should drip between once and twice a minute, and if you have a "yellow metal" shaft this is vital to prevent unacceptable shaft wear. However if you leave your boat for long periods you have to rely upon an automatic bilge pump, rely upon a film of grease to keep the gland watertight, or tighten the gland before leaving the boat and slacken it for running. To carry out the adjustment slacken any lock nuts and then tighten the adjusting nut until the gland drips as you require. On glands like Fig 1 please ensure that you tighten the nuts each side of the gland evenly. Remember to re-tighten the lock nut(s) when you have done. Never adjust so far there is no more adjustment left for a later occasion, if you do the gland will leak and you will be unable to stop it. When you have about 12mm (half an inch) of adjustment left it is probably time to think about re-packing the gland.

Preparation for packing. Having decided that it is now time to pack the gland you must first of all consider how much wear you found when you inspected the front of the gland. The greater the visible wear the more worn the bearing surfaces are likely to be and thus the greater volume of water is likely to leak in when the packing has been removed. If the gland has a remote greaser (as most canal boats) tightening this down may well stop almost all leaking. If you are concerned about the amount of water that may leak in on a narrowboat you can remove the weed hatch and wrap cling-film or mastic bandage into the space between propeller and back of boat - but please remember to remove it before putting the boat in gear!

Removing the old packing. Some people simply add more packing on top of what is already there. This may be fine in an emergency, but the old packing will have lost a lot of its "body" and is likely to be hard and worn. It is best to repack from scratch, so you need to get all the old packing out. If you bought a pre-pack you may find instructions inside telling you to buy a special removing tool. Remove the nuts and any "pusher" and screw the screw into the old packing (Fig 11). Then use pliers on the screw head to pull the screw and old packing out. Repeat until you can feel the screw scraping on bare metal. Now the water may be jetting in, but it will be at low volume. This is where you will be grateful that you prepared the packing before taking the old stuff out! You have lots of time - so don't panic.

Repacking the gland. Conventionally, take a piece of packing and push it down the hole using a blunt instrument (I had a length of mahogany I kept for the purpose, but nowadays I use a screwdriver). Note the position of the cut/join. Put the next length in with the cut about 120 degrees away from the first one. Repeat for the next length and so on. Do not totally fill or overfill the void. If you do you will have problems getting the parts back together and may well cross thread the big nut or jamb the pusher. Leave at least 3mm of space above the top packing ring. The leak should now have virtually stopped. Unconventionally, wrap the packing around the shaft in the direction noted before and just keep pushing it fully home, one bit at a time. Note, with this method the gland may leak a bit in reverse.

Adjusting the gland. If the gland is still leaking gradually tighten the nut(s), turning the shaft with your hand* until the drip either just stops or drips once or twice a minute. Now you can pump out the bilge and double check that all lock nuts are in place and tight. Run the engine in ahead and astern for half an hour or so. Keep checking for leaks and adjusting (with engine stopped) as required. Take the boat for a run. Keep feeling the gland for overheating and checking for leaks. Adjust if required.

Packless glands. Certain packless glands utilise a rubber boot on the shaft that holds a ring seal against the face of the stern tube. As with any "rubber" component one must take care to ensure it is changed as soon as there are signs of the "rubber" deteriorating. Certain types are designed so you can fit two onto the shaft. A working one and a back up one some way up the shaft. If the working one fails you can cut it off and then fit the spare in its place without taking the boat from the water. The gland must be adjusted whenever it starts to drip to excess. They are supposed to drip about once every minute or so, but privately owned boats which spend a lot of time out of use would either sink or flatten their batteries via the automatic bilge pump. Most private boats would adjust the gland by tightening the big nut/sleeve until the drip just about stops, the stern tube greaser is then used to finally seal the drip at night and when the boat is left. If the nut/sleeve is fully tight or if the gland will not stop leaking, the gland needs re-packing. If the engine has dropped or been misaligned the gland and bearing may well be worn egg shaped. This will prevent the packing sealing, or, more likely, cause the packing to be shredded inside the gland. Always carefully inspect the bore of a gland which will not stop leaking to make sure it is not worn

The Greaser. This is often referred to as the stern GLAND greaser but, in fact, it actually lubricates the inboard shaft bearing and in boats with plain outboard bearing, that also. Whatever type of greaser you have fitted your lecturer would NOT ADVISE the use of "water pump grease" especially if you have a plain outboard bearing. This grease is too thick and is difficult to get into the bearing. Plain outboard bearings use the grease or emulsion of grease and water passing down the stern tube for lubrication, so ensure they get an adequate supply. Rubber (cutless) outboard bearings should be grease resistant, but you I would not put them to the test. With this type of bearing be more sparing with the stern gland greaser.

Shaft alignment - This topic follows stern glands and shaft logs because, as already stated, an out of alignment shaft will cause bearings and glands to wear, and thus leak. They also cause overheating of the gland and bearing and excess vibration and noise. The easiest way to avoid these problems altogether is to use a suitable flexible coupling so the engine and shaft does not have to be aligned.

Flexible Couplings. There are three types of flexible couplings:

1. Anti-torsional vibration couplings - these are characterised by some form of rubber inserts and are quite stiff, in fact they are usually impossible to bend by hand. They MIGHT allow a small amount of angular misalignment, but all one can be sure of is that they smooth out the torque from the engine and cushion the engine from anything which tries to stop the prop. This type of coupling should be aligned.
2. One piece flexible couplings - this type allows a limited amount of angular and radial (vertical/horizontal) misalignment. They are more flexible than type one. "Centaflex" typifies this type. Never exceed the amount of misalignment quoted by the manufacturer. The gearbox and shaft should be initially aligned with this type AND checked every year. A solid dummy coupling is often used to replace the flexible coupling whilst aligning the shaft.

3. Flexible "jack shaft" types - typified by "Aquadrive" or intermediate shafts containing a pair of vehicle universal joints. These is the only "fit and forget" couplings as far as alignment is concerned. They might need greasing regularly (if they are U.J. types I would insist they have a grease nipple fitted). They will require a thrust block to transfer prop thrust to the hull, otherwise they will "dog leg". The thrust block might be part of the assembly (Aquadrive), otherwise the thrust block will also need regular lubrication. These types allow the use of very flexible engine mounts if required.

Aligning the shaft - This is a very bad name - you actually align the engine. It is far easier to demonstrate the procedure than to explain it in text. First, loosen the stern gland so the shaft can be slid back and forth, then remove the bolts holding the half couplings together (fit dummy coupling if required). Slide the shaft back so the male "land" come free from its recess. The shaft will now "flop about" to a greater or lesser extent - much greater if you have a flexible shaft log. Using scrap block of wood pack the shaft so it will still slide, but is held centralised within the free play. Slide the shaft forward until the couplings meet. The land should slide into its recess. If it does not the shaft is out of radial alignment. This engine needs lowering to align the couplings. The engine might also have to be moved sideways on its beds to cure radial misalignment.

Next use feeler gauges all round the gap in the couplings to check the angular alignment. To cure this misalignment the front of the engine has to be raised, but in doing this the gearbox coupling will move down, so the engine will also have to be lifted. This procedure of raising and lowering various parts of the engine will eventually bring the shaft into alignment. Try and get the gap to less than 0.1mm. Slide the shaft forwards, it should slide home easily, recheck with feeler gauges. Check tightness of engine mounts and recheck alignment. Bolt up couplings and tighten stern gland.

Raising & lowering the engine. Some engines are supported on long, threaded studs between two nuts. These are the easiest to raise and lower, they are also the most likely to drop when the nuts work loose. Another method is to use a pair of (metal I hope) wedges under each foot which are slid over each other to raise or lower the engine. These can slide out by vibration and cause the engine to drop. The traditional way is to cut shims from scrap metal shaped like a square U. The engine mounts are loosened and the engine levered up. The shim is slid in place with the open end pointing downhill (towards the stern). These work well but the engine needs tightening every time a shim is inserted to ensure it is absolutely flat.

Tide and time wait for no man ...

Tide and time wait for no man ...

An introduction, some definitions and refreshers

Chart datum is the reference level above which heights of tide are predicted and below which charted depths are measured. The datum used for most British ports is the lowest sea level predicted under average meteorological conditions for that port - unlike the land mapping datum for the ordinance survey which is fixed for the whole U.K. and is based on mean sea level (see footnote).

Range is important for tidal barrages and is the difference in height between successive High and Low waters.

Tides arise from the gravitational pull of the moon and sun on the major oceans of the world. The biggest tides occur when the sun, moon and earth are on the same axis and are called spring tides and occur about every two weeks. In the intervening week the sun - world - moon axis become at right angles -
resulting in a reduced gravitational pull on the oceans. These tides are known as neap tides and the range is about 64% of the spring range. In the Bristol Channel spring tides occur in the evening and early morning and neaps at midday and midnight.

Tidal predictions are for average conditions and in practice can be affected by meteorological conditions such as atmospheric pressure and gales.

So why are tides in some locations much higher/lower than the general levels? The main reason is the shore configuration e.g. the coast of South Wales and England together with the shelving sea bottom. The narrowing and shelving would not affect the level if the rate of rise was very slow but for the momentum of the thousands of tons of water entering at speeds up to 4 or 5 knots. Other effects occur in long closed estuaries and channels which have a natural wave resonance period which when coinciding with the tidal period gives a large amplification of the tide.

Together with changes in tidal heights come tidal currents or tidal streams. Off Portishead streams reach 4.8 knots at springs and 2.6 knots at neap tides. Near Lynmouth on the N.Devon coast, streams reach 4 and 1.9 knots.

The establishment of a UK Tide Gauge Network* (UKTGN) was recommended as a result of severe flooding along the east coast of England in 1953 and it is now owned and funded by the Environment Agency (EA).

*part of the National Tidal & Sea Level Facility which is hosted by the National Oceanography Centre (NOC) - a consortium consisting of NOC science groups, the British Oceanographic Data Centre (BODC) as well as the UK Tide Gauge Inspectorate.

The network comprises 45 gauges - related through the national levelling network to Ordnance Datum Newlyn.



Definitions:
Chart Datum (CD)
CD is the reference level from which heights of tide are predicted and charted depths are measured. In the UK it normally approximates to LAT, and the tide will not frequently fall below it. The actual depth of water in any particular position is the charted depth plus the height of tide.

Lowest Astronomical Tide (LAT)
LAT is the lowest level which can be predicted under average meteorological, and any combination of astronomical, conditions. This level will not be reached every year. Storm surges can cause even lower levels to be reached.

Highest Astronomical Tide (HAT)
HAT is the highest level which can be predicted to occur under average meteorological conditions and under any combination of astronomical conditions, except storm surges. It is the level above which vertical clearances under bridges and power lines are measured; see 4.5.

Ordnance Datum (Newlyn)
Ordnance Datum (Newlyn) is the datum of the land levelling system on mainland England, Scotland and Wales, and to which all features on UK land maps are referred. The difference between Ordnance Datum (Newlyn) and CD is shown at the foot of each page of tide tables in this Almanac. Differences between CD and foreign land levelling datums are similarly quoted.

Charted depth
Charted depths are printed on charts in metres and decimetres (0.1m) and show the depth of water below CD. (Not to be confused with a sounding which is the actual depth of water (charted depth + height of tide) in a particular position.)

Drying height
A drying height is the height above CD of any feature which at times is covered by water. The figures, in metres and decimetres, are underlined on the chart. The depth of water over a drying feature is the height of tide minus the drying height. If the result is negative, then the feature is uncovered at that time.

Vertical clearances
Under bridges and power lines - these are measured above HAT. Some older charts may still show clearances above MHWS; see 4.5.

Elevation of lights
The charted height of a light (its elevation) is measured above MHWS.

Height of tide
The height of the tide is the vertical distance of the sea level above (or very occasionally below) CD. Predicted heights are given in metres and decimetres.

Rise/Fall of tide
The Rise of the tide is the amount the tide has risen since the earlier Low Water. The Fall of a tide is the amount the tide has fallen since the last High Water.

Duration
Duration is the time between LW and the next HW, normally slightly more than six hours. It can be used to find the approximate time of LW when only the time of HW is known.

Interval
The interval is a period of time quoted in hours and minutes before (–) or after (+) HW. Intervals are printed in hourly increments (–6hrs to +6hrs) along the bottom of each tidal curve diagram in Chapter 9.

Spring tides
Spring tides occur roughly every 16 days, near to Full and New Moon, when the tide–raising forces of Sun and Moon are at a maximum. See 4.9 for phases of the Moon.

Neap tides
Neaps occur roughly every 16 days, near the Moon's first and last quarters, when the tide–raising forces of Sun and Moon are at a minimum. See phases of the Moon.

Mean High Water and Low Water Springs/Neaps
MHWS and MHWN are the means of predicted HW heights of Sp or Np tides over a period of 18.6 years. Similarly, MLWS and MLWN are the means of LW heights for Sp and Np tides respectively. Mean tide level (MTL) is the mean of the above values.

Mean Sea Level (MSL or ML)
This is the average level of the sea's surface over a long period, preferably 18.6 years.

Range
The range of a tide is the difference between the heights of successive HWs and LWs. Spring range is the difference between MHWS and MLWS, and Neap range is the difference between MHWN and MLWN.

Standard Ports
have tidal characteristics observed over a long period and are suitable as a reference for secondary ports on the adjacent coasts.

Secondary Ports
Have similar tidal characteristics to those of their Standard Port. Time and height differences are applied to the Standard Port predictions. 'Secondary' does not imply lesser importance.

Tidal Coefficients
Indicate the range of a tide. Daily values are listed and explained in 9.0.9.

Tidal definitions


Footnote: In Great Britain, Ordnance Datum (OD) for the Ordnance Survey is ODN (Ordnance Datum Newlyn), defined as the MSL at Newlyn in Cornwall.

The Aeolian Islands

The Aeolian Islands


or Lipari Islands (in Italian called Isole Eolie), are a volcanic archipelago* in the Tyrrhenian Sea north of Sicily, named after the demi-god of the winds Aeolus. The locals residing on the islands are known as Eolians.

The islands are Lipari, Vulcano, Salina, Stromboli, Filicudi, Alicudi, Panarea and Basiluzzo.

There are two active volcanoes - Stromboli and Vulcano - the former (northernmost), is visible on most nights. All the islands have some form of vulcanism - such as steaming fumaroles and thermal waters.

The archipelago is a "volcanic arc" and the outcome of continental drift as the African continental shelf collides with Europe. This has created a volcanic area with breaks and ruptures in the crust with magma outpourings and eruptions. This "Eolian Arc" extends for more than 90 miles, but the geological instability caused by the collision of Africa and Europe is very much larger. It includes Sicily, Calabria, Campania together with Greece and the Aegean islands.

The complex of the eight Aeolian Islands, covering an area of over 600 square miles - and climbs up from the bottom of the Tyrrhenian sea.



So ... this has to be a sailing area for a holiday - please note Stan!

* In Italian, perhaps from tradition dating back into antiquity, the Arcipelago (from Greek) was the title of first the Aegean Sea and, later, the Aegean Islands, given the Aegean's large number of islands.

Power & Battery Management

Using Power & Battery Management

Inverters

One of the most useful items to put on a boat would be an inverter. Inverters make 110 volt AC power from 12 volt battery system. Put simply, for every 100 watts of AC power that inverter is producing, it needs to draw about 10 amps from the 12 volt battery system - (for inverters rated at 90% efficiency, the number is closer to 9.25 amps per 100 watts).

Appliance // Watts // Use Time // Watt Hours // Amp Hours

Sat Receiver // 20 // say 6 hrs. // 120 // 12

Computer // 70 // say 6 hrs. // 420 // 6

12 V lights // 6A* // say 3 hrs. // 18 // 6

IDEAS
Install a small digital panel meter and permanently connect it to batteries?
Change lighting to LEDs?
Solar panels?

RULES
Start out with fully charged batteries.
Turn off lights when not need them. (Pay attention to those things that draw power and shut them down when not actually using them).
Watch the battery meter and get a feel for how healthy the batteries are.
If possible, recharge batteries before they get down to 50% of capacity, as this will extend their life.
Pay attention to the batteries.
Maintenance and proper selection pay off in long life.
Provide for adequate charging and monitoring.
Don't just "plug it in and forget it".


Battery Management:

Unplugged from shore power every amp that systems take out of the battery bank is going to have to be put back somehow, sometime. This is especially true on a small yacht like SY Cryptic. Weight and space restrictions dictated a battery bank of two "Domestics" and one for the "Starter Motor".

A. Power consumption of Cryptic's electrical items:

- Speed/Distance log
- Echo-sounder
- Navigation lights (having LEDs fitted*)
- Anchor lights (having LEDs fitted*)
* can switch between the two.
- Interior lights,
- Sat Nav. (Garmin)
- Auto Tiller

(Key is how many Watts (or Amps) each consumed (in the appliance or in its Handbook ... or get a figure for Amps, and multiply this by 12 volts, to convert it to Watts). Useful formulae

. Watts = Amps x Volts
. Amps = Watts / Volts
. Volts = Watts / Amps

For example, if an item consumes 2.4 watts per hour and is rated 12V it consumes 2.4/12 - or 0.2 amps per hour (0.2Ah).

(B) Battery management

Marine batteries are apparently designed for deep discharge cycles, - i.e. be repeatedly discharged and recharged over quite a long lifespan. However most commentators say that there is a limit, though, beyond which draining a deep discharge battery is unhealthy for it - say discharging below 50% of nominal capacity will shorten the life of a marine battery to an extent, and going below 70% is "no-no".

If the 50% limit is followed a modern marine battery should be able to withstand several thousand cycles of discharge and recharging. Go for the largest capacity battery (re. 50% of its capacity before needing to recharge it), then at the discharge rates described above could likely survive a good deal more than six hours, day or night, without bothering to recharge.

(C) Recharging

Leave the marine with a full battery – so fit decent shore power link and a good battery charger. Charging out at sea - engine only. Remember too, that at night the drain will be far worse so need to run the engine for some hours by dusk to build up any kind of reserve to get through the night.

Some facts and useful information about Batteries

1. Batteries are never 100% efficient - energy is lost (heat as well as chemical reaction) in both charging and discharging. Use 1,000 watts from a battery, it might take 1,200 watts or more to fully recharge it.

2. Slower charging and discharging rates are more efficient.

3. The starting battery needs a very large starting current for a very short time - so have a large number of thin plates for maximum surface area. The plates are composed of a lead "sponge", similar in appearance to a very fine foam sponge. This gives a very large surface area, but if deep cycled, this sponge will quickly be damaged and will fall to the bottom of the cells.

4. Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% repeatedly, and have much thicker plates often solid Lead plates.

5. Marine batteries are actually "hybrid", and fall between the starting and deep-cycle batteries, while a few are true deep cycle. In the hybrid, the plates may be composed of Lead sponge, but it is coarser and heavier than that used in starting batteries. It is often hard to tell what you are getting in a "marine" battery, but most are a hybrid. "Hybrid" types should not be discharged more than 50%.

6. A battery's capacity for storing energy is rated in a number of ways but most often in Amp/Hours.

7. Amp/Hour rating of battery capacity is calculated by multiplying the current (in amperes) by time (in hours) the current is drawn. For example: A battery which can deliver 4 amperes for 20 hours before being discharged would have a 80 amp-hour battery rating (4 X 20= 80).

8. Selecting the correct batteries is all about lifespan.... the correct ones will last a lot longer, - but the lifespan will vary considerably with how the battery is used, // maintained and charged, as well as temperature, and other things ... typically Marine: will last 1-6 years.

Remember

Reversing the polarity of the battery when connecting it may severely damage or destroy some parts of electrical system.

Actions

1. Mark the cables so which is which is obvious.

2. When replacing batteries, remove the negative cable first because this will minimize the possibility of shorting the battery when removing the other cable.

3. Next remove the positive cable and then the hold-down bracket or clamp. If the hold down bracket is severely corroded, replace it.

4. Dispose the old battery by exchanging it when buying the new one.

5. Be sure that the battery tray and cable terminals or connectors are clean.

6. Thinly coat the terminals and terminal clamps with Vaseline to prevent corrosion.

7. Replace the hold-down brackets or straps to secure the batteries in place.

8. Reconnect the cables in reverse order, i.e., attach the positive cable first and then the negative cable last.

9. Before using the batteries check the electrolyte levels and state-of-charge & refill or recharge as required.

Cautions:

- Make sure the battery compartment is vented for batteries.
- Never place batteries where electrical sparks or other ignition sources may exist - for example a simple 12 volt light with a switch on it is an excellent source of ignition spark!
- Secure batteries with straps or brackets to prevent movement
- Most premature failures are caused by low electrolyte levels.
- Electrolyte is is lost whenever the batteries are charged OR discharged heavily.
- Keep the electrolyte level above the plates at all times - adding only distilled water
- In summer, check the electrolyte levels more frequently.
- Check the tightening of belts and also the hold-down clamps and terminals.

Extend the battery's life by keeping it charged properly and avoiding deep discharges. A battery "cycle" is one complete discharge and recharge cycle. It is usually considered to be discharging from 100% to some point not lower than 20%, and then charging back up to 100%. Battery life is directly related to how deep the battery is cycled each time. If a battery is discharged to only 50% each cycle, it will last about twice as long as if it is cycled to 20%. Running the battery down totally flat will have a very negative effect on the lifespan of the battery. Avoid discharging the battery below the 40% level whenever possible. If the battery has been charging, then it's important to let the battery set for 2 to 3 hours without a load or charger connected to stabilize before testing. Otherwise, the reading will be high, caused by a phenomenon called "surface charge."

It is also necessary to invest in a good digital voltmeter.... it's the only meter that will offer the necessary accuracy to properly test your battery system.

Most ratings assume that the battery is at room temperature: 21 degrees C. As the temperature of the battery drops, so will the fully-charged voltage reading - it seems to be safe to say that for each 4 degrees C drop in temperature expect to see the voltage drop about a tenth of a volt. (.10 volt) That means that a battery at 0 degrees C d with a no-load voltage reading of 12.35 volts is fully charged. Battery capacity (how many amp-hours it can hold) is reduced as temperature goes down, and increased as temperature goes up. This is why a car battery dies on a cold winter morning, even though it worked fine the previous afternoon. At freezing, the battery's capacity is reduced by 20%. At approximately -27 C battery AH capacity drops to 50%. Capacity is increased at higher temperatures - at 122 degrees F, battery capacity would be about 12% higher. But - even though battery capacity at high temperatures is higher, battery life is shortened. Battery capacity is reduced by 50% at -27 degrees C - but battery LIFE increases by about 60%. Recharge a deep cycle battery as soon as possible after each use. It is very hard on a deep cycle battery to sit for extended periods in a partially charged state.

Charging batteriesMost flooded batteries should be charged at no more than the "C/10" rate for any sustained period. "C/10" is the battery capacity in amp/hours divided by 10. For a 220 AH battery, this would equal 22 Amps. Charging at 15.5 volts will give you a 100% charge on Lead-Acid batteries. Note that flooded batteries MUST bubble (gas) somewhat to ensure a full charge, and to mix the electrolyte. Float voltage for Lead-Acid batteries should be about 2.15 to 2.23 volts per cell, or about 12.9-13.4 volts for a 12 volt battery. Flooded battery life can be extended if an equalizing charge is applied every 10 to 40 days. This is a charge that is about 10% higher than normal full charge voltage, and is applied for about 2 to 16 hours. This makes sure that all the cells are equally charged, and the gas bubbles mix the electrolyte. If the liquid in standard wet cells is not mixed, the electrolyte becomes "stratified". You can have very strong solution at the top, and very weak at the bottom of the cell.

"What does all that mean?" It means that battery charging is a little more complicated than most people think. It's not really safe to assume that running the engine will keep batteries up to par, or that plugging in to A/C power and letting the converter run will do it; (in fact this is often referred to as a maintenance or trickle charge, since it's main purpose is to keep an already charged battery from discharging).

Converters vs. real battery chargersAs stated above, the converter isn't designed to be a decent battery charger. It's main purpose in life is to provide 12 volt power while you are plugged in to an A/C outlet. Since the converter is designed to not exceed a voltage of about 13.5 volts, it will never fully charge batteries. Also, after it has succeeded in partially charging it will then commence to boil off electrolyte, as the "float" voltage is too high. If the boat is plugged into A/C power for months at a time, MUST keep a close eye on battery's electrolyte level. It is very common for a converter to boil a battery dry in a month or two.

It is a big help to unplug the converter or switch it off when the boat is not in use // attached to A/C power. Just run the converter overnight once a month or so and it will be much easier on the batteries. Another significant disadvantage to the converter is that most units aren't capable of delivering their rated amperage to the batteries to charge them. Older converters will only manage about 10 or 15 amps and will put out significantly less when powered by a generator. A much better choice is to replace the converter with a modern 3 stage battery charger. These units are fully automatic and can be left plugged in continuously without damaging the batteries. They provide much higher charging current than a converter and will fully charge the batteries in short order, even on generator power.

Testing the batteries

1. Visually inspect for obvious problems.... for example; damaged cases, corroded terminals or cables, loose hold-down clamps or cable terminals, or low electrolyte.

2. To insure accurate readings, you must eliminate any surface charge before testing. Use one of the following methods;

1. Allow the battery to sit for six hours with no load or charger connected, or...
2. Apply a 25 amp load for three minutes and wait five minutes, or...
3. With a battery load tester, apply a 150 amp load for 10-15 seconds.

3. The battery under test must be disconnected from any load or charger when testing. This is referred to as "Open Circuit".

Check both the specific gravity in each cell with a external hydrometer AND the battery terminal voltage with a digital voltmeter without the engine or converter/charger running. If the state-of-charge is BELOW 75% using either the specific gravity or voltage test then the battery needs to be recharged BEFORE proceeding.

Replace the battery, if one or more of the following conditions occur:

If there is a .050 or more difference in the specific gravity reading between the highest and lowest cell, you have a weak or dead cell(s),
If the battery will not recharge to a 75% or more state-of-charge level.
If digital voltmeter connected to the battery terminals indicates 0 volts, you have an open cell, or if the digital voltmeter indicates
10.45 to 10.65 volts (5.2 to 5.35 volts for a 6 volt battery), you have a shorted cell. [A shorted cell is caused by plates touching, sediment build-up or "treeing" between plates.

Winter Storage - Most boats should be stored in the winter months on the hard. This storage can be very tough on batteries. Batteries in storage self-discharge over time. This is a natural phenomenon and will cause batteries to slowly go flat. Deep discharges drastically shortens battery life. Extremely cold temperatures can cause batteries to freeze if they aren't adequately charged. Some charging current will have to be applied to the batteries periodically during the storage period. To keep batteries safe through the winter storage period, consider removing the batteries and storing then in a warmer place, like a garage. Check the voltage once a month and do an overnight recharge if the voltage falls to the 80% state-of-charge point. If removing the batteries just isn't possible, then there are several things that should be done as the boat goes into storage.

Ensure that ALL electrical loads are disconnected from the batteries. There are lots of things that might put a tiny load on the batteries even though everything is "off". Most smoke, CO and Propane detectors all are tiny drains on the batteries. Even if the current draw is only a few Milli-amps, over time these "phantom loads" will run your batteries flat! Best bet is to identify which 12 volt fuses protect these units and remove them. It is a real good idea to check at the battery with an ammeter to ensure that there is no current drain.

Provide for some sort of charging to offset the batteries tendency to self-discharge. This can be provided by a small solar panel or trickle charger, or the converter or 3 stage charger in your RV. It is best to let the batteries discharge slightly over a few weeks or a month and then do a full recharge overnight. Trickle chargers and unregulated solar panels can slowly boil off electrolyte, or worse, fail to maintain the charge, allowing your batteries to become deeply discharged. If your RV has a standard converter, do not leave it plugged in constantly to keep your batteries up! That converter will boil your batteries DRY in a big hurry!

If a boat is plugged into A/C power over the storage period, make sure to either unplug the converter or switch it off at the breaker. It's far better to run the converter overnight every 3 or 4 weeks or so as needed to charge the batteries. Another possibility would be to put the converter or the whole boat on a simple plug in timer and set it to be "on" for about 1 hour a day. If you have a smart 3 stage charger, it may be safe to leave it plugged in at all times, but pay very close attention to the electrolyte level in the batteries just in case. Boiling a battery down to where the plates are exposed to air will cause permanent damage to the battery. Don't let this happen to you!

Check on the batteries from time to time during the storage period. Stop by at least once a month and check battery voltage and electrolyte levels. Don't walk away from the batteries in November and expect them to still be ready to go in May.

The bottom line....
Pay attention to safety when working with or near batteries.
Buy only good quality Deep Cycle batteries for your boat.
Keep up with battery maintenance... check electrolyte levels regularly and pay attention to charging and discharging protocols to increase lifespan.
Invest in a good digital voltmeter and use it.
Consider replacing an old converter for a better quality 3 stage charger.
Take care of batteries during extended storage periods.

Mainsheet, Traveller, and Traveller Car

Mainsheet, Traveller, and Traveller Car

The mainsail needs to be controlled from the mast and the boom. Here are the basic controls used most often by the sailing crew.

Mainsheet

You need a way to control the sailboat boom. The mainsheet consists of blocks--or pulleys--that attach to the end or middle of the boom and deck. You ease (let out) the mainsheet to allow the boom to swing away from the boat. You trim or sheet (pull in) the boom with the mainsheet to bring the boom closer to the boat.

Traveller

A flat, thin bar, installed athwartships (side to side), upon which the traveller car slides. The traveller helps to adjust the position of the boom.

Traveller Car

The bottom block on most mainsheets attaches to a device called a mainsheet car. The mainsheet car slides along the traveler to allow more control on the mainsail.

Genoa Sheet, Lead Block, and Sheet Winch

The headsail - which may be a jib or Genoa - needs line and winches to keep control and make adjustments to shape the headsail for maximum performance.

Genoa Sheet

Each headsail has two control lines called sheets that attach to the clew of the sail.

Lead Block

After you attach the headsail sheet, lead each sheet along the side of the boat. Thread it through the lead block. This block sits atop a Genoa track, and directs (leads) the line back to the cockpit sheet winch.

Sheet Winch

Each sheet leads from the sheet block back to a sheet winch on each side of the boat. Because the loads on a jib or Genoa filled with wind are so high, you need the power of a winch to provide many times more mechanical advantage to pull in (grind) on each Genoa sheet. Make sure that you take three or more clockwise wraps on the winch before you start to grind the winch.

Other Control Devices

Some controls are common to both sails, such as halyards, halyard winches, and winch handles.

Halyards

You hoist each sail with the halyard. The end of each halyard has a shackle that attaches to the head of the sail. Haul (raise) each sail all the way to the top of the mast before you tie it off (cleat it).

Halyard Winch

Similar to the sheet winch, each sail halyard has its own winch so that you can place enough tension along the luff to shape the sail. Make sure that you take three or more clockwise wraps on the winch before you start to grind the winch.

Winch Handle

Each winch handle has a ratchet shaped end that fits into the center of the winch drum. The handle should be long enough to enable you to grind on the winch without excessive effort. Stow the winch handle in a winch handle pocket, or keep it in the cockpit to prevent loss.

Boom Vang

When the end of the boom goes out past the side of the boat, the mainsheet will not have enough "umph" to pull down on the leech of the mainsail. That's where the boom vang takes over. It's a simple block and tackle--much like the mainsheet--but it attaches to the bottom of the mast and then to the underside of the sailboat boom.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6370820

A boom vang is used on a sailboat to pull down the boom on off-wind points of sail when the wind in the mainsail would lift the boom. Proper use of a boom vang helps keep the sail full and drawing well.
What a Boom Vang Does

When a sailboat sails downwind, the mainsail is let out for best sail trim, and the boom is typically 50 to 80 degrees from the centreline out to the leeward side. Because of this angle, the mainsheet has little downward pull on the boom, which freely rises and falls with wind changes and when the boat rolls on waves from behind. When the boom rises, the mainsail billows out, twists, and spills wind, then may snap back - over and over. This motion makes the sail less efficient.

A boom vang prevents this motion by pulling downward on the boom regardless of its position in relation to the centreline. A traditional block-and-tackle vang (photo) mounts between the base of the mast and mid-boom. The control line is typically led back to the cockpit, where pulling the line exerts force to pull the boom down.

A number of commercial rigid boom vangs are also available. This is essentially an adjustable pole that mounts similarly to hold down the boom. While more expensive than a block-and-tackle vang, rigid vangs have the added function of also holding the boom up when the mainsail is lowered, such that a topping lift is not needed.
How to Use a Boom Vang
When to tighten the vang:

When sailing downwind on a broad reach or a run, tighten the vang to keep the boom down and minimize mainsail twist that spills air from the sail.
If the boat does not have a traveller, which is used to pull the boom down on a beam reach, use the vang even on a beam reach (the wind directly over one side).

When to ease or release the vang to allow the boom to rise:

When sailing downwind in light air, the mainsail generally has better shape if the vang is not tight. Let the sail bag out some.
When sailing downwind in a strong wind, ease the vang to de-power the mainsail by allowing the boom to rise and the sail to spill air high up (mainsail “twist”). Bring in the mainsheet if needed to prevent chafing of the sail against the shrouds and spreaders.
After dropping the mainsail, raise the boom to give more headroom in the cockpit.

Boom Vang as Preventer

If your boat lacks a boom preventer, an important piece of safety gear, it may be possible to improvise with the vang as a preventer when needed, if its lower connection can be easily released and moved forward of the mast. See How to Rig a Preventer.

The Beaufort Scale

Beaufort Scale

Beaufort’s diary from 1806, showing his original scale.

It is often said that Francis Beaufort, of the British Royal Navy, was the first to devise a scale of wind force – towards the start of the 19th century. However, in reality he was not, in fact, the originator of such a scale. A similar one was actually in use at least a century earlier – and probably long before that.
We do not know who first devised a scale of wind force. But it would be surprising if medieval Arab seafarers did not use one because they had, by the late 15th century, classified in detail virtually every aspect of the weather that had any navigational significance. It would be surprising, too, if the mariners of ancient times did not use such a scale – but as they left so few records, we can only speculate.
The scale we all know – the one that bears Beaufort’s name – was formulated at the start of the 19th century. But accounts from 1704 show that a similar scale was in use a century earlier.



The scale is used in the Shipping Forecasts broadcast on BBC Radio 4 in the United Kingdom, and in the Sea Area Forecast from Met Éireann, the Irish Meteorological Service. Met Éireann issues a "Small Craft Warning" if winds of Beaufort Force 6 (min. mean of 22 knots) are expected up to 10 Nautical miles offshore. Other warnings are issued by Met Éireann for Irish coastal waters, which are regarded as extending 30 miles out from the coastline, and the Irish Sea or part thereof: "Gale Warnings" are issued if winds of Beaufort Force 8 are expected; "Strong Gale Warnings" are issued if winds of Beaufort Force 9 or frequent gusts of at least 52 knots are expected.; "Storm Force Warnings" are issued if Beaufort Force 10 or frequent gusts of at least 61 knots are expected; "Violent Storm Force Warnings" are issued if Beaufort Force 11 or frequent gusts of at least 69 knots are expected; "Hurricane Force Warnings" are issued if winds of greater than 64 knots are expected.

Weather Forecasting

Weather Forecasting


BBC Weather
http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/2641108


BBC British Isles Weather Forecast Video
http://news.bbc.co.uk/weather/hi/news/newsid_7725000/7725418.stm


Metcheck
http://www.metcheck.com/V40/UK/HOME


Metcheck Atlantic Jet Stream
http://www.metcheck.com/V40/UK/FREE/jetstream.asp


MetBrief Marine
http://www.wetterzentrale.de/wz/pics/brack5.gif


UK Inshore Waters Forecast & Strong Winds
http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/marine/inshore_forecast.html#All

Met Office Marine Forecasts - Strathclyde
http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/uk/st/st_forecast_warnings.html

Met Office Inshore Waters Forecast and Strong Winds
http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/marine/inshore_forecast.html#All

XC Weather
http://www.xcweather.co.uk/

Wind Finder Britain
http://www.windfinder.com/windreports/windkarte_gb.htm

British Isles Satellite view of Weather
http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/satpics/latest_uk_vis.html

UK Synoptic Charts
http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/uk/surface_pressure.html

High Sea Forecast & Storm Warnings
http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/marine/highseas_forecast.html#All~All

Frank Singleton's Weather Information
http://weather.mailasail.com/Franks-Weather/Home

Wind Guru
http://www.windfinder.com/windreports/windkarte_gb.htm

Met Office Oban - http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/uk/st/oban_forecast_weather.html?select=st/oban

with the relevant sea areas:

Met Office inshore waters forecast from the Mull of Kintyre to Ardnamurchan Point
- http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/marine/inshore_forecast.html#MullofKintyretoArdnamurchanPoint

Met office inshore waters forecast from Ardnamurchan Point to Cape Wrath excluding the Minch
- http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/marine/inshore_forecast.html#ArdnamurchanPointtoCapeWrath

Met Office inshore waters forecast for the Minch
- http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/marine/inshore_forecast.html#TheMinch

xcweather - http://www.xcweather.co.uk/

Anchoring

Anchoring generally

Jeremy Rogers Ltd now supplies any new Contessa with a 25lb CQR anchor with 10 metres galvanised 8mm chain and 30 metres nylon warp.

Cryptic has 30 metres of 8 mm chain and 17 metres of warp securing a 25 Ib CQR anchor.


CQR - nearest sounds to "secure" or Plough anchor. So named due to its resemblance to a traditional agricultural plough - the original CQR (Secure), a 1933 design patented in the UK by a mathematician - Geoffrey Ingram Taylor - they are generally good in all bottoms, but not exceptional in any. The CQR design has a hinged shank, allowing the anchor to turn with direction changes rather than breaking out.

In Cryptic's stern locker she has approx 10 lb Danforth type.


American Richard Danforth invented the Danforth pattern in the 1940s for use aboard landing craft. It uses a stock at the crown to which two large flat triangular flukes are attached. The stock is hinged so the flukes can orient toward the bottom. Tripping palms at the crown act to tip the flukes into the seabed. The design is a burying variety, and once well set can develop high resistance. Its light weight and compact flat design make it easy to retrieve and relatively easy to store but has difficulty penetrating kelp and weed-covered bottoms, as well as rocky and particularly hard sand or clay bottoms. If there is much current or the vessel is moving while dropping the anchor it may "kite" or "skate" over the bottom due to the large fluke area acting as a sail or wing. Once set, the anchor tends to break out and reset when the direction of force changes dramatically, such as with the changing tide, and on some occasions it might not reset but instead drag.

The basic anchoring consists of determining the location, dropping the anchor, laying out the scope, setting the hook, and assessing where the vessel ends up. The ship will seek a location which is sufficiently protected; has suitable holding ground, enough depth at low tide and enough room for the boat to swing.

The location to drop the anchor should be approached from down wind or down current, whichever is stronger. As the chosen spot is approached, the vessel should be stopped or even beginning to drift back. The anchor should be lowered quickly but under control until it is on the bottom. The vessel should continue to drift back, and the cable should be veered out under control so it will be relatively straight.

Once the desired scope is laid out, the vessel should be gently forced astern, usually using the auxiliary motor but possibly by backing a sail. A hand on the anchor line may telegraph a series of jerks and jolts, indicating the anchor is dragging, or a smooth tension indicative of digging in. As the anchor begins to dig in and resist backward force, the engine may be throttled up to get a thorough set. If the anchor continues to drag, or sets after having dragged too far, it should be retrieved and moved back to the desired position (or another location chosen.)

There are techniques of anchoring to limit the swing of a vessel.

- If the anchorage has limited room by using an anchor weight, kellet or sentinel. One lowers a concentrated, heavy weight down the anchor line – rope or chain – directly in front of the bow to the seabed, behaves like a heavy chain rode and lowers the angle of pull on the anchor. If the weight is suspended off the seabed it acts as a spring or shock absorber to dampen the sudden actions that are normally transmitted to the anchor and can cause it to dislodge and drag. In light conditions, a kellet will reduce the swing of the vessel considerably. In heavier conditions these effects disappear as the rode becomes straightened and the weight ineffective. Known as a "anchor chum weight" or "angel" in the UK.
- Using two anchors set approximately 45° apart, or wider angles up to 90°, from the bow is a strong mooring for facing into strong winds. To set anchors in this way, first one anchor is set in the normal fashion. Then, taking in on the first cable as the boat is motored into the wind and letting slack while drifting back, a second anchor is set approximately a half-scope away from the first on a line perpendicular to the wind. After this second anchor is set, the scope on the first is taken up until the vessel is lying between the two anchors and the load is taken equally on each cable. This moor also to some degree limits the range of a vessel's swing to a narrower oval. Care should be taken that other vessels will not swing down on the boat due to the limited swing range.

Anchoring in West Scotland especially

People worry about anchoring (and so they should), particularly if they are from the marina-strewn south of England, and even sometimes from the Clyde. Do not think you can get away with marinas and moorings in this area - you definitely cannot, and indeed should not if you want to make the best of it.

Don't worry too much if you seem to be close to the shore, or indeed a rock that emerges at low water. You do have to be closer in here than on the south and east coasts of England. Just make sure you have not got too much chain out so that if the wind or tide change you don't go aground.

Need a good heavy anchor appropriate to your boat size along with 30 metres of chain. I have always used a CQR with no problem, others swear by the ROCNA.

Lay out the chain to 3-4 times the depth at high water, and then motor back on the anchor hard to ensure it is well dug in - this is particularly important in places like Canna harbour which is notorious for kelp.

Never use a tripping line for fear it will trip itself, or wrap itself round the prop, and so far so good. Put out a second anchor if it is going to blow hard. It is also easier to lay out even more chain if there is room to swing.

New Tender & Outboard ordered ...

TENDER

The Bombard Typhoon tender range, made from glued "STRONGAN" fabric, has a compact size when packed away - folded in bag dimensions 2'11" x 1'6" x 0'9" in the case of the 200. Overall length 6'7" Beam 4'1" Tube diameter 13" 2 airtight compartments
2 person capacity Maximum payload 165kg (!) Maximum outboard 3hp Short shaft engine installation Maximum engine weight 15kg

Slatted floor + Aluminium engine mounting plate + Bailer / 1100 Decitex fabric
Semi-recessed valve Bravo type (one way!) / Lashing / Flared anti-chafing fender
1 Bow handle / 2 "D" rings for towing / 2 Swivel oarlocks + 2 Aluminium oars / Cone reinforcement (all with a carrying bag) as well as a Footpump + 1 Repair kit and an Owners manual!

ENGINE

Model - Suzuki DF2.5S
Shaft Length - 381 mm
Weight - 13.0 Kg
Bore x Stroke - 48mm x 38mm
Propeller Selection (pitch) - 5.3'' - 8"
Starting System - Manual
Engine Type - OHV
Fuel Delivery System - Carburetor
No. Of Cylinders - 1
Piston Displacement - 68cc
Maximum Output - 1.8 kW
Full Throttle Operating Range - 5,250 - 6,750 r.p.m.
Steering - Tiller
Oil Pan Capacity - 0.3 L
Ignition System - P.E.I Alternator
Engine Mounting - Bushing Type
Trim Method - Manual and Tilt
Gear Ratio - 2.15:1
Gear Shift F-N
Exhaust - above propeller exhaust

Weighing only 13kg, the DF2.5 is the lightest 2.5hp four stroke on the market. Yet it still produces very little noise and engine vibration and there are a range of features not expected on such a small outboard, including Forward-Neutral Gear shift, water-cooling and a 1 litre fuel tank that will last for hours.

Starting & Stopping the engine

Starting & Stopping the engine

Beta 20 HP Number K15553.

Only has a Beta Control panel with a keyswitch.



When leaving boat for an extended period turn off sea cock (in cupboard under the sink) and turn off the isolate battery switch.

When starting boat engine ...

- Turn sea cock on (in line with pipe)
- Turn on battery isolator switch
- Ensure engine is OUT of GEAR but throttle about one third open
- Turn key for 10 seconds or so maximum to HEAT position (15 seconds and longer will damage starter plugs and lead to poor starting later).
- Turn clockwise to START to start!

Panel should illuminate!
Green lamp for panel power should come on
Buzzer should sound
Red lamp should light for low oil pressure
Red lamp for high engine temperature should NOT come on
Red lamp for no starter battery charge should come on

- Leave key in RUN position by releasing from START

All re lamp warning lights should go off
Buzzer should stop
Note: Oil pressure warning may take some time to go out
Battery charge may not go out on tick-over - only if revs are higher (2,000 rpm).

Stopping the engine
Normally use STOP button - Hold until engine stops ... should be in a few seconds ...
Alternately there is a lever on the engine if the steps are lifted out. This lever is held towards the stern and stops the engine.

Never switch the key to OFF when the engine is running as the alternator will not charge the battery.

Engine Maintenance

Engine Maintenance

Beta BD722 20 HP Number K15553.

She has a High Rise exhaust and a siphon break plus an extra fuel line filter.

Beta Marine engines are essentially Kubota diesels & meet all current and projected exhaust emission regulations – the RCD (Recreational Craft Directive 94/25/EC as amended by 2003/44/EC).

Fitted by TS Marine for Ron Pell on 24th June 2005



She was service by TS Marine whilst in Derek Morland's Yachting Sport's yard in July 2011

Did about 190 hours during summer 2011 as we moved her North, round Land's End to Maryport by way of Milford Haven, Holyhead and Douglas!

Serviced today 7th June 2012 by John, Foreman of MPM North West Ltd. I watched and tried to learn!

The service was designed to be a 250 hour service - raw water inlet looked clear and bubbled. John changed all the oil, oil filter, air cleaner, impeller, sacrificial anode and topped up antifreeze coolant. Fan belt changed and adjusted. Two new Additionally sprayed the throttle control with WD40 (need to do panel next time up) and cleaned the oil from the bilge. Engine checked for leaks.

John showed me how to change the oil filter (screwed back on clockwise) and first put s thin film of oil around the rubber gasket and thread to ensure a good seal.

Didn't see how the fuel filter was replaced - it was at the back of the engine and hard to manage. John did in the end but this needs looking at. Luckily only needs doing every 750 hours so should be OK.

Air filter was fitted too tightly and slightly damaged. John replaced anyway. Reasonably easy to get to.

Sea water impeller was fine - no degradation at all - good job as Beta Marine had sent the wrong size impeller. I will get the right one (and a spare fan belt) by post from MPM North West Ltd.

- I need to have a 10mm and a 12 mm screw wrench on board.
- Also a spare oil filter / fan belt / 'o' rings / impeller lubricant and spare impeller.

Beta Marine’s Seagoing engines are:
• Heat Exchanger cooled, indirect injection, naturally aspirated marine diesel engines.
• Multi-cylinder with high inertia flywheel for smooth running.
• Three vortex combustion for quiet running, low emissions and excellent fuel consumption.
• Quiet gear driven camshaft for engine reliability and easy servicing – no timing chains or tooth belts to replace.
• Water cooled exhaust manifold.
• Battery charging alternator 40/65 amps – giving full power at cruising speed with 12 volt starting as standard.
• Heater plugs for cold start below 5°C.
• Output rotation is clockwise in ahead, viewed from gearbox end.
• Technodrive or Newage PRM gearboxes with 2:1 reduction ratio as standard.
• Fuel filter and mechanical fuel lift pump.
• Lubricating oil filter and sump drain pump.

M.O.B.

M.O.B.



Harness Rules for Cryptic

Harnesses should be worn whenever

- Whenever a crew member feels it necessary.

- Whenever the sails are reefed due to the wind strength

- When approaching an area of tidal disturbance

- Whenever a person is alone on deck

- Always after dark

M.O.B.

Many people's first response to someone falling overboard, while the boat is under sail, is to turn on the engine and return under power. This technique can easily cause greater harm to the situation. Lines can get caught around the propeller and the spinning propeller can cause harm to the victim in the water.

Whatever method you choose the old mantra applies: Practice, practice, practice.

The Deep Beam recovery.

Yell “man overboard”.
Throw a PFD or other buoyant objects.
Assign a spotter.
Helmsperson steers to a 'deep beam' reach - about 20 degrees below a beam reach.
The apparent wind should be about 110 degrees off the bow.
Sail for about 2 boat lengths.
Tack into the wind and you will be all set up to return on a close reach.
Sail to windward of the victim.
Cut the sails to stop just windward of the victim.

The Quick Stop recovery.

Yell “man overboard”.
Throw a PFD or other buoyant objects.
Assign a spotter.
Tack the boat into the wind but leave the jib sheet trimmed on its original side.
As the boat tacks trim the main and leave it trimmed.
Keep sailing a circle around the victim always shouting encouragement.
When you are ready with a line to throw head upwind near the victim
Drop sails or approach on a close reach and cut the sails.
Return under power.
Secure lines so they are not dragging in the water
Cut the engine when close to the victim.

Under Power Recovery Technique

Yell “man overboard”.
Throw a PFD or other buoyant objects.
Assign a spotter.
Bring the boat upwind of the victim and broad side to the wind.
Then allow the wind to gently push the boat towards the victim
Adjust position with the engine.
Have crew throw lines to the victim
Be sure to cut the engine once close.


Or ... as the New Zealand Coast Guard would do it ...

WITH AN ENGINE


To stay as close to the person in the water as possible:
1. Come up to wind and tack, leaving headsail cleated so that boat stops hove to.
2. Throw a heaving line to the person in the water, if in range and haul alongide.
3. If not within heaving line range:
- start the engine
- lower or furl the headsail
- sheet the main sail amidships.
Ensure there are no lines or sheets lying loose that could foul the propeller.
4. Motor to leeway of the person in the water and approach him/her head to wind.

WITHOUT AN ENGINE


A simple way to recovery is to:
1. Put boat into an "apparent" beam reach (burgee across the boat). Allow yourself some sea room to maneuver and get yourself organized to recover the person from the water.
2. Tack and sail on the opposite beam reach (person in water now on weather bow).
3. Approach on a close reach easing the sheets in the final stages. Leeway will increase as you slow down - allow for this.
4. In a larger boat it is easier to come alongside to windward of the person in the water and make the recovery over the leeward side.
5. In a dinghy, come alongside to the leeward of the person in the water and make the recovery by he weather shroud.

Some Nautical Terms I am trying to master ...

Some Nautical Terms I am trying to master ...

Abaft - near or at the stern
Abeam - to the side of the vessel, at right angle to the fore and aft line on a boat
Aboard - on a boat
About - on the other tack, to pass through the eye of the wind
Above Board – on deck
Abreast - alongside
Adrift - floating free without propulsion at the mercy of wind and current
Aft - i) the portion of the vessel behind the middle area of the vessel & ii) towards the stern (of the vessel).
Aground - stuck on the bottom in shallow water
Ahead – move forward
Alee - to leeward, away from the wind
Aloft - topsides
Amidships - in the centre
Anchorage - place suitable for anchoring in relation to the wind, seas and bottom
Anchor Ball – a black ball visible in all direction display in the forward part of a vessel at anchor
Anchor Light – a white light visible in all direction display in the forward part of a vessel at anchor
Apparent wind - wind felt on a vessel underway
Astern - going backwards
Athwart - across
Athwartships - running surface at the stern
Aweigh - anchor unhooked from the bottom
Ballast - weight in the keel or lowest part of the hull placed there to balance the boat
Bar - bank or shoal at the entrance of a harbour
Batten - wooden or plastic slat inserted in the leach of a sail
Beam - a boat's greatest width
Beam reach - point of sail where the boat is sailing at a right angle to the apparent wind
Beamy - a wide boat
Bearing i) direction of an object expressed either as a true bearing as shown on the chart, or as a bearing relative to the heading of the boat; ii) water lubricated bearing that support drive shaft in front of propeller.
Beating - going toward the direction of the wind, by alternate tacks
Bend – i) make fast ii) a knot by which one rope is made fast to another
Bilge - the lowest part inside a boat's hull.
Bitter End - last part of a rope or chain the inboard end of the anchor rope
Block - nautical pulley
Block and line – an arrangement of pulleys and line which increases hoisting power for heavy work, such as pulling in the sail in a strong breeze
Boom - spar that holds the foot of the mainsail
Boomvang - tackle or hydraulic ram that restrains the boom from lifting
Boot stripe - different color strip of paint at the waterline
Boot top - painted band on the boat's topsides just at the waterline
Bottom - that part of a boat's hull under water (the under-body)
Bow - the most forward part of a boat
Bow Line - docking line leading from the bow
Bow Spring Line - bow pivot line used in docking (and undocking), or to prevent the boat from moving forward or astern while made fast to a pier.
Broach – a sudden, unplanned, and uncontrolled turning of a vessel so that the hull is broadside to the seas or to the wind
Bulkhead - wall separating a boat's cabins and providing structural integrity
Bulwark – a solid rail along ship-side above deck to prevent men and gear from going overboard
Buoyancy - the upward force that keeps a boat floating
Canvas - sails or area of the sails
Cast Off – To let go.
Chain – i) The rope or chain made fast to the anchor ii) 120 fathoms in length.
Chainplates - straps on the hull to which stays and shrouds are secured
Chock - an object to which line are secured on-board
Cleat – a fitting, usually with two horn-shaped ends, to fairlead for the anchor rode and docking lines
Clew - the after lower corner of a sail
Combing - a low wall around a cockpit
Cockpit - a recessed area in the deck containing the tiller or wheel
Companionway - an opening with steps leading down from the deck to the cabin
Deck - the top of a hull
Displacement – a boat's weight or the weight of the water displaced by a boat
Dodger – a piece of canvas protecting the cockpit sides
Draft - the distance between the waterline and the lowest part of the keel
Drift – a vessel’s leeway.
Drive Saver – a barely flexible coupling that softens the shock of immediate gear engagement - they break the electrical connection between the engine/transmission and the shaft and prop.
Ebb Tide – is a receding tide, a period or state of decline.
Even Keel - a boat is floating on its designed waterline, it is said to be floating on an even keel.
Fairlead - a fitting through which a line passes so chafe is avoided
Fairway - the middle of a channel or between piers in a marina
Fathom – 6 feet
Fender - a bumper hung between a boat and a float or a pier
Foot - the bottom edge of a sail
Forepeak - storage compartment in the bow
Foresail - a jib
Forestay - a stay running from the foredeck to the upper part of the mast
Freeboard - distance from the deck to the water
Furl – to roll up a sail snugly
Furling sail - a sail that rolls around a boom or head stay
Galley - a boat's kitchen
Genoa - a large jib, which overlaps at least part of the headsail
Gooseneck - a fitting securing the forward end of the boom to the mast
Ground tackle - anchor plus anchor rode.
Hatch - opening in a deck covered by a hatch cover
Headway - traveling towards the destination
Hove To - a manoeuvre in which sails are set to minimize the boats headway
House - the roof of the cabin extending above deck
Hull - the boat's shell, exclusive of deck, cabin and rig
Jib - a sail carried on the head stay or forestay
Jibing (Gybing) - changing the boat's direction when the wind is from the back
Kedge Off - use an anchor to pull a grounded boat to deep water
Keel - an appendage under the hull that counteracts leeway and heeling forces
Knot – i) a measure of speed equal to one nautical mile (6,076 feet) per hour; ii) A fastening made by interweaving rope to form a stopper, to enclose or bind an object:
Lanyard – a short line used for making anything fast or used as a handle.
Latitude - distance north or south of the equator measured and expressed in degrees.
Launch - putting a boat into the water
Layout - arrangement of gear on deck or furniture in the cabin
Lee - side sheltered from the wind, if a vessel has the wind on her starboard side, that will be the weather, and the larboard will be the lee side, under the lee of anything, is when you have that between you and the wind.
Leech - the after edge of a sail
Leeward - the lee side, in a direction opposite to that from which the wind blows, which is called windward, the opposite of lee is weather, and of leeward is windward.
Leeway - sideways movement of the boat caused by either wind or current.
Length - Overall (LOA) - distance between tip of bow and end of stern.
Length - Waterline (LWL) - most forward and aft points touching the water when the boat is at rest
Lifeline - a coated wire, supported by stanchions, that encircles the deck
Line - any length of rope that has a specified use
Longitude - distance in degrees east or west of the meridian at Greenwich.
Luff - the forward edge of a sail
Mainmast - the tallest of two masts on a boat
Mainsail (Pron. mains'l) - the sail hoisted on the after side of the mainmast
Mast - the wooden or aluminium pole supported by standing rigging.
Masthead - the top of the mast
Masthead (Steaming) Light - located about two-thirds of the way up on the mast
Maststep - the support for the bottom of the mast
Nautical Mile - Nm = 1,853 metres = 2,000 yards = 6,080 feet Contrary to some earlier replies, a nautical mile is (or was) the length of a minute of latitude at the latitude in question, not at the equator.
Navigation lights - that are illuminated at night
Neap Tides – Low tides, coming at the middle of the moon`s second and fourth quarters.
Outhaul - a sail control that secures the clew of boomed sail
Painter - a bow line on a dinghy
Pendant (Pron. pennant)
Personal Floating Device PFD - term for a life jacket or other approved item to support flotation
Point - to sail close into the wind
Port (1) left side of boat looking forward; (2) a commercial harbour
Porthole - a small round window
Preventer - a line that prevents a boom from jibing accidentally
Pulpit - a stainless-steel guardrail around the bow
Pushpit - a stainless-steel guardrail around the stern
Quarter – i) part of a vessel`s side between the after part of the main chains and the stern, ii) the wind is said to be quartering, when it blows in a line between that of the keel and the beam.
Racer-Cruiser - a boat comfortable enough for cruising and fast enough for racing
Race - strong, rippling tide.
Rig - the spars, standing rigging and sails
Rode - the anchor line (chain and/or rope)
Roller furler - a device for rolling a sail for storage while still in the rigging
Rudder - an underwater board that is adjusted by helm to steer the boat
Running Lights – Navigation lights required to be shown on boats underway between sundown and sunup.
Safety harness - worn on the upper body and attached to the deck with a tether
Sail Controls - lines, tackles, and other gear to hold a sail in position and adjust its shape
Scope - ratio of the length of an anchor line, from a vessels bow to the anchor, to the depth of the water.
Scupper - deck or cockpit drain
Sea Anchor – a device used to reduce a boats drift before the wind.
Seacock - valve opening and closing a pipe through hull valve, a shut off on a plumbing or drain pipe between the vessel`s interior and the sea boat.
Seaworthy - able to survive heavy weather
Shackle - U shaped connector with a pin or bolt across the open end.
Sheave - wheel in a block upon which the rope works.
Sheet - primary sail control line which pulls the sail in and out
Short line - a short length of wire or line used as an extender
Shroud - side stay or a line or wire running from the top of the mast to the spreaders, then attaching to the side of the vessel.
Skeg - small fixed fin attached to the underbody near the stern
Sloop - a single-masted boat that flies one jib at a time
Sole - a cabin or cockpit floor
Spar - any mast, boom or spinnaker pole
Speed - the theoretical maximum speed of a displacement hull through the water.
Spinnaker - a light ballooning sail
Springs - highest and lowest course of tides, occurring every new and full moon.
Sprayhood - a fold up or fixed spray shield at the forward end of the cockpit
Spreader - an athwart ships strut holding shrouds out from the mast and providing lateral support
Stanchions - metal posts supporting lifelines
Starboard - the right side, facing forward
Starboard Tack - vessel is on the starboard tack, or has her starboard tacks on board, when she has the wind on her starboard side.
Stay - a wire supporting the mast
Stem - stiff behind, towards the stern
Stern - the aftermost part of a boat
Stern Gland - a coupling between an engine's gearbox and driveshaft
Stuffing Box - the place where the drive shaft exits the hull
Tacking - changing a boat's direction when sailing into the wind
Toe Rail – a small rail around the deck of a boat, the toe rail may have holes in it to attach lines or blocks.
Topping Lift - a line or wire that holds up the boom or spinnaker pole
Transom – makes the stern
Traveller - an athwart-ships’ running tracks on which slides a car connected to the main-sheet blocks.
Trim - Fore and aft balance of a boat.
True Wind – the actual direction from which the wind is blowing
Turnbuckle - a threaded fitting used to adjust a stay's length
Variation - angular difference between the magnetic meridian and the geographic meridian at a particular location.
Weather or Lee Beam - direction to windward or leeward, at right angles with the keel.
Winch - a geared drum turned by a handle used to pull halyards, sheets and other lines under strain
Windlass - special type of winch used for pulling the anchor rode
Yacht - a pleasure boat
Yawl - swing off course, as when due to the impact of a following or quartering sea.