Anchoring

Anchoring generally

Jeremy Rogers Ltd now supplies any new Contessa with a 25lb CQR anchor with 10 metres galvanised 8mm chain and 30 metres nylon warp.

Cryptic has 30 metres of 8 mm chain and 17 metres of warp securing a 25 Ib CQR anchor.


CQR - nearest sounds to "secure" or Plough anchor. So named due to its resemblance to a traditional agricultural plough - the original CQR (Secure), a 1933 design patented in the UK by a mathematician - Geoffrey Ingram Taylor - they are generally good in all bottoms, but not exceptional in any. The CQR design has a hinged shank, allowing the anchor to turn with direction changes rather than breaking out.

In Cryptic's stern locker she has approx 10 lb Danforth type.


American Richard Danforth invented the Danforth pattern in the 1940s for use aboard landing craft. It uses a stock at the crown to which two large flat triangular flukes are attached. The stock is hinged so the flukes can orient toward the bottom. Tripping palms at the crown act to tip the flukes into the seabed. The design is a burying variety, and once well set can develop high resistance. Its light weight and compact flat design make it easy to retrieve and relatively easy to store but has difficulty penetrating kelp and weed-covered bottoms, as well as rocky and particularly hard sand or clay bottoms. If there is much current or the vessel is moving while dropping the anchor it may "kite" or "skate" over the bottom due to the large fluke area acting as a sail or wing. Once set, the anchor tends to break out and reset when the direction of force changes dramatically, such as with the changing tide, and on some occasions it might not reset but instead drag.

The basic anchoring consists of determining the location, dropping the anchor, laying out the scope, setting the hook, and assessing where the vessel ends up. The ship will seek a location which is sufficiently protected; has suitable holding ground, enough depth at low tide and enough room for the boat to swing.

The location to drop the anchor should be approached from down wind or down current, whichever is stronger. As the chosen spot is approached, the vessel should be stopped or even beginning to drift back. The anchor should be lowered quickly but under control until it is on the bottom. The vessel should continue to drift back, and the cable should be veered out under control so it will be relatively straight.

Once the desired scope is laid out, the vessel should be gently forced astern, usually using the auxiliary motor but possibly by backing a sail. A hand on the anchor line may telegraph a series of jerks and jolts, indicating the anchor is dragging, or a smooth tension indicative of digging in. As the anchor begins to dig in and resist backward force, the engine may be throttled up to get a thorough set. If the anchor continues to drag, or sets after having dragged too far, it should be retrieved and moved back to the desired position (or another location chosen.)

There are techniques of anchoring to limit the swing of a vessel.

- If the anchorage has limited room by using an anchor weight, kellet or sentinel. One lowers a concentrated, heavy weight down the anchor line – rope or chain – directly in front of the bow to the seabed, behaves like a heavy chain rode and lowers the angle of pull on the anchor. If the weight is suspended off the seabed it acts as a spring or shock absorber to dampen the sudden actions that are normally transmitted to the anchor and can cause it to dislodge and drag. In light conditions, a kellet will reduce the swing of the vessel considerably. In heavier conditions these effects disappear as the rode becomes straightened and the weight ineffective. Known as a "anchor chum weight" or "angel" in the UK.
- Using two anchors set approximately 45° apart, or wider angles up to 90°, from the bow is a strong mooring for facing into strong winds. To set anchors in this way, first one anchor is set in the normal fashion. Then, taking in on the first cable as the boat is motored into the wind and letting slack while drifting back, a second anchor is set approximately a half-scope away from the first on a line perpendicular to the wind. After this second anchor is set, the scope on the first is taken up until the vessel is lying between the two anchors and the load is taken equally on each cable. This moor also to some degree limits the range of a vessel's swing to a narrower oval. Care should be taken that other vessels will not swing down on the boat due to the limited swing range.

Anchoring in West Scotland especially

People worry about anchoring (and so they should), particularly if they are from the marina-strewn south of England, and even sometimes from the Clyde. Do not think you can get away with marinas and moorings in this area - you definitely cannot, and indeed should not if you want to make the best of it.

Don't worry too much if you seem to be close to the shore, or indeed a rock that emerges at low water. You do have to be closer in here than on the south and east coasts of England. Just make sure you have not got too much chain out so that if the wind or tide change you don't go aground.

Need a good heavy anchor appropriate to your boat size along with 30 metres of chain. I have always used a CQR with no problem, others swear by the ROCNA.

Lay out the chain to 3-4 times the depth at high water, and then motor back on the anchor hard to ensure it is well dug in - this is particularly important in places like Canna harbour which is notorious for kelp.

Never use a tripping line for fear it will trip itself, or wrap itself round the prop, and so far so good. Put out a second anchor if it is going to blow hard. It is also easier to lay out even more chain if there is room to swing.

New Tender & Outboard ordered ...

TENDER

The Bombard Typhoon tender range, made from glued "STRONGAN" fabric, has a compact size when packed away - folded in bag dimensions 2'11" x 1'6" x 0'9" in the case of the 200. Overall length 6'7" Beam 4'1" Tube diameter 13" 2 airtight compartments
2 person capacity Maximum payload 165kg (!) Maximum outboard 3hp Short shaft engine installation Maximum engine weight 15kg

Slatted floor + Aluminium engine mounting plate + Bailer / 1100 Decitex fabric
Semi-recessed valve Bravo type (one way!) / Lashing / Flared anti-chafing fender
1 Bow handle / 2 "D" rings for towing / 2 Swivel oarlocks + 2 Aluminium oars / Cone reinforcement (all with a carrying bag) as well as a Footpump + 1 Repair kit and an Owners manual!

ENGINE

Model - Suzuki DF2.5S
Shaft Length - 381 mm
Weight - 13.0 Kg
Bore x Stroke - 48mm x 38mm
Propeller Selection (pitch) - 5.3'' - 8"
Starting System - Manual
Engine Type - OHV
Fuel Delivery System - Carburetor
No. Of Cylinders - 1
Piston Displacement - 68cc
Maximum Output - 1.8 kW
Full Throttle Operating Range - 5,250 - 6,750 r.p.m.
Steering - Tiller
Oil Pan Capacity - 0.3 L
Ignition System - P.E.I Alternator
Engine Mounting - Bushing Type
Trim Method - Manual and Tilt
Gear Ratio - 2.15:1
Gear Shift F-N
Exhaust - above propeller exhaust

Weighing only 13kg, the DF2.5 is the lightest 2.5hp four stroke on the market. Yet it still produces very little noise and engine vibration and there are a range of features not expected on such a small outboard, including Forward-Neutral Gear shift, water-cooling and a 1 litre fuel tank that will last for hours.

Starting & Stopping the engine

Starting & Stopping the engine

Beta 20 HP Number K15553.

Only has a Beta Control panel with a keyswitch.



When leaving boat for an extended period turn off sea cock (in cupboard under the sink) and turn off the isolate battery switch.

When starting boat engine ...

- Turn sea cock on (in line with pipe)
- Turn on battery isolator switch
- Ensure engine is OUT of GEAR but throttle about one third open
- Turn key for 10 seconds or so maximum to HEAT position (15 seconds and longer will damage starter plugs and lead to poor starting later).
- Turn clockwise to START to start!

Panel should illuminate!
Green lamp for panel power should come on
Buzzer should sound
Red lamp should light for low oil pressure
Red lamp for high engine temperature should NOT come on
Red lamp for no starter battery charge should come on

- Leave key in RUN position by releasing from START

All re lamp warning lights should go off
Buzzer should stop
Note: Oil pressure warning may take some time to go out
Battery charge may not go out on tick-over - only if revs are higher (2,000 rpm).

Stopping the engine
Normally use STOP button - Hold until engine stops ... should be in a few seconds ...
Alternately there is a lever on the engine if the steps are lifted out. This lever is held towards the stern and stops the engine.

Never switch the key to OFF when the engine is running as the alternator will not charge the battery.

Engine Maintenance

Engine Maintenance

Beta BD722 20 HP Number K15553.

She has a High Rise exhaust and a siphon break plus an extra fuel line filter.

Beta Marine engines are essentially Kubota diesels & meet all current and projected exhaust emission regulations – the RCD (Recreational Craft Directive 94/25/EC as amended by 2003/44/EC).

Fitted by TS Marine for Ron Pell on 24th June 2005



She was service by TS Marine whilst in Derek Morland's Yachting Sport's yard in July 2011

Did about 190 hours during summer 2011 as we moved her North, round Land's End to Maryport by way of Milford Haven, Holyhead and Douglas!

Serviced today 7th June 2012 by John, Foreman of MPM North West Ltd. I watched and tried to learn!

The service was designed to be a 250 hour service - raw water inlet looked clear and bubbled. John changed all the oil, oil filter, air cleaner, impeller, sacrificial anode and topped up antifreeze coolant. Fan belt changed and adjusted. Two new Additionally sprayed the throttle control with WD40 (need to do panel next time up) and cleaned the oil from the bilge. Engine checked for leaks.

John showed me how to change the oil filter (screwed back on clockwise) and first put s thin film of oil around the rubber gasket and thread to ensure a good seal.

Didn't see how the fuel filter was replaced - it was at the back of the engine and hard to manage. John did in the end but this needs looking at. Luckily only needs doing every 750 hours so should be OK.

Air filter was fitted too tightly and slightly damaged. John replaced anyway. Reasonably easy to get to.

Sea water impeller was fine - no degradation at all - good job as Beta Marine had sent the wrong size impeller. I will get the right one (and a spare fan belt) by post from MPM North West Ltd.

- I need to have a 10mm and a 12 mm screw wrench on board.
- Also a spare oil filter / fan belt / 'o' rings / impeller lubricant and spare impeller.

Beta Marine’s Seagoing engines are:
• Heat Exchanger cooled, indirect injection, naturally aspirated marine diesel engines.
• Multi-cylinder with high inertia flywheel for smooth running.
• Three vortex combustion for quiet running, low emissions and excellent fuel consumption.
• Quiet gear driven camshaft for engine reliability and easy servicing – no timing chains or tooth belts to replace.
• Water cooled exhaust manifold.
• Battery charging alternator 40/65 amps – giving full power at cruising speed with 12 volt starting as standard.
• Heater plugs for cold start below 5°C.
• Output rotation is clockwise in ahead, viewed from gearbox end.
• Technodrive or Newage PRM gearboxes with 2:1 reduction ratio as standard.
• Fuel filter and mechanical fuel lift pump.
• Lubricating oil filter and sump drain pump.

M.O.B.

M.O.B.



Harness Rules for Cryptic

Harnesses should be worn whenever

- Whenever a crew member feels it necessary.

- Whenever the sails are reefed due to the wind strength

- When approaching an area of tidal disturbance

- Whenever a person is alone on deck

- Always after dark

M.O.B.

Many people's first response to someone falling overboard, while the boat is under sail, is to turn on the engine and return under power. This technique can easily cause greater harm to the situation. Lines can get caught around the propeller and the spinning propeller can cause harm to the victim in the water.

Whatever method you choose the old mantra applies: Practice, practice, practice.

The Deep Beam recovery.

Yell “man overboard”.
Throw a PFD or other buoyant objects.
Assign a spotter.
Helmsperson steers to a 'deep beam' reach - about 20 degrees below a beam reach.
The apparent wind should be about 110 degrees off the bow.
Sail for about 2 boat lengths.
Tack into the wind and you will be all set up to return on a close reach.
Sail to windward of the victim.
Cut the sails to stop just windward of the victim.

The Quick Stop recovery.

Yell “man overboard”.
Throw a PFD or other buoyant objects.
Assign a spotter.
Tack the boat into the wind but leave the jib sheet trimmed on its original side.
As the boat tacks trim the main and leave it trimmed.
Keep sailing a circle around the victim always shouting encouragement.
When you are ready with a line to throw head upwind near the victim
Drop sails or approach on a close reach and cut the sails.
Return under power.
Secure lines so they are not dragging in the water
Cut the engine when close to the victim.

Under Power Recovery Technique

Yell “man overboard”.
Throw a PFD or other buoyant objects.
Assign a spotter.
Bring the boat upwind of the victim and broad side to the wind.
Then allow the wind to gently push the boat towards the victim
Adjust position with the engine.
Have crew throw lines to the victim
Be sure to cut the engine once close.


Or ... as the New Zealand Coast Guard would do it ...

WITH AN ENGINE


To stay as close to the person in the water as possible:
1. Come up to wind and tack, leaving headsail cleated so that boat stops hove to.
2. Throw a heaving line to the person in the water, if in range and haul alongide.
3. If not within heaving line range:
- start the engine
- lower or furl the headsail
- sheet the main sail amidships.
Ensure there are no lines or sheets lying loose that could foul the propeller.
4. Motor to leeway of the person in the water and approach him/her head to wind.

WITHOUT AN ENGINE


A simple way to recovery is to:
1. Put boat into an "apparent" beam reach (burgee across the boat). Allow yourself some sea room to maneuver and get yourself organized to recover the person from the water.
2. Tack and sail on the opposite beam reach (person in water now on weather bow).
3. Approach on a close reach easing the sheets in the final stages. Leeway will increase as you slow down - allow for this.
4. In a larger boat it is easier to come alongside to windward of the person in the water and make the recovery over the leeward side.
5. In a dinghy, come alongside to the leeward of the person in the water and make the recovery by he weather shroud.

Some Nautical Terms I am trying to master ...

Some Nautical Terms I am trying to master ...

Abaft - near or at the stern
Abeam - to the side of the vessel, at right angle to the fore and aft line on a boat
Aboard - on a boat
About - on the other tack, to pass through the eye of the wind
Above Board – on deck
Abreast - alongside
Adrift - floating free without propulsion at the mercy of wind and current
Aft - i) the portion of the vessel behind the middle area of the vessel & ii) towards the stern (of the vessel).
Aground - stuck on the bottom in shallow water
Ahead – move forward
Alee - to leeward, away from the wind
Aloft - topsides
Amidships - in the centre
Anchorage - place suitable for anchoring in relation to the wind, seas and bottom
Anchor Ball – a black ball visible in all direction display in the forward part of a vessel at anchor
Anchor Light – a white light visible in all direction display in the forward part of a vessel at anchor
Apparent wind - wind felt on a vessel underway
Astern - going backwards
Athwart - across
Athwartships - running surface at the stern
Aweigh - anchor unhooked from the bottom
Ballast - weight in the keel or lowest part of the hull placed there to balance the boat
Bar - bank or shoal at the entrance of a harbour
Batten - wooden or plastic slat inserted in the leach of a sail
Beam - a boat's greatest width
Beam reach - point of sail where the boat is sailing at a right angle to the apparent wind
Beamy - a wide boat
Bearing i) direction of an object expressed either as a true bearing as shown on the chart, or as a bearing relative to the heading of the boat; ii) water lubricated bearing that support drive shaft in front of propeller.
Beating - going toward the direction of the wind, by alternate tacks
Bend – i) make fast ii) a knot by which one rope is made fast to another
Bilge - the lowest part inside a boat's hull.
Bitter End - last part of a rope or chain the inboard end of the anchor rope
Block - nautical pulley
Block and line – an arrangement of pulleys and line which increases hoisting power for heavy work, such as pulling in the sail in a strong breeze
Boom - spar that holds the foot of the mainsail
Boomvang - tackle or hydraulic ram that restrains the boom from lifting
Boot stripe - different color strip of paint at the waterline
Boot top - painted band on the boat's topsides just at the waterline
Bottom - that part of a boat's hull under water (the under-body)
Bow - the most forward part of a boat
Bow Line - docking line leading from the bow
Bow Spring Line - bow pivot line used in docking (and undocking), or to prevent the boat from moving forward or astern while made fast to a pier.
Broach – a sudden, unplanned, and uncontrolled turning of a vessel so that the hull is broadside to the seas or to the wind
Bulkhead - wall separating a boat's cabins and providing structural integrity
Bulwark – a solid rail along ship-side above deck to prevent men and gear from going overboard
Buoyancy - the upward force that keeps a boat floating
Canvas - sails or area of the sails
Cast Off – To let go.
Chain – i) The rope or chain made fast to the anchor ii) 120 fathoms in length.
Chainplates - straps on the hull to which stays and shrouds are secured
Chock - an object to which line are secured on-board
Cleat – a fitting, usually with two horn-shaped ends, to fairlead for the anchor rode and docking lines
Clew - the after lower corner of a sail
Combing - a low wall around a cockpit
Cockpit - a recessed area in the deck containing the tiller or wheel
Companionway - an opening with steps leading down from the deck to the cabin
Deck - the top of a hull
Displacement – a boat's weight or the weight of the water displaced by a boat
Dodger – a piece of canvas protecting the cockpit sides
Draft - the distance between the waterline and the lowest part of the keel
Drift – a vessel’s leeway.
Drive Saver – a barely flexible coupling that softens the shock of immediate gear engagement - they break the electrical connection between the engine/transmission and the shaft and prop.
Ebb Tide – is a receding tide, a period or state of decline.
Even Keel - a boat is floating on its designed waterline, it is said to be floating on an even keel.
Fairlead - a fitting through which a line passes so chafe is avoided
Fairway - the middle of a channel or between piers in a marina
Fathom – 6 feet
Fender - a bumper hung between a boat and a float or a pier
Foot - the bottom edge of a sail
Forepeak - storage compartment in the bow
Foresail - a jib
Forestay - a stay running from the foredeck to the upper part of the mast
Freeboard - distance from the deck to the water
Furl – to roll up a sail snugly
Furling sail - a sail that rolls around a boom or head stay
Galley - a boat's kitchen
Genoa - a large jib, which overlaps at least part of the headsail
Gooseneck - a fitting securing the forward end of the boom to the mast
Ground tackle - anchor plus anchor rode.
Hatch - opening in a deck covered by a hatch cover
Headway - traveling towards the destination
Hove To - a manoeuvre in which sails are set to minimize the boats headway
House - the roof of the cabin extending above deck
Hull - the boat's shell, exclusive of deck, cabin and rig
Jib - a sail carried on the head stay or forestay
Jibing (Gybing) - changing the boat's direction when the wind is from the back
Kedge Off - use an anchor to pull a grounded boat to deep water
Keel - an appendage under the hull that counteracts leeway and heeling forces
Knot – i) a measure of speed equal to one nautical mile (6,076 feet) per hour; ii) A fastening made by interweaving rope to form a stopper, to enclose or bind an object:
Lanyard – a short line used for making anything fast or used as a handle.
Latitude - distance north or south of the equator measured and expressed in degrees.
Launch - putting a boat into the water
Layout - arrangement of gear on deck or furniture in the cabin
Lee - side sheltered from the wind, if a vessel has the wind on her starboard side, that will be the weather, and the larboard will be the lee side, under the lee of anything, is when you have that between you and the wind.
Leech - the after edge of a sail
Leeward - the lee side, in a direction opposite to that from which the wind blows, which is called windward, the opposite of lee is weather, and of leeward is windward.
Leeway - sideways movement of the boat caused by either wind or current.
Length - Overall (LOA) - distance between tip of bow and end of stern.
Length - Waterline (LWL) - most forward and aft points touching the water when the boat is at rest
Lifeline - a coated wire, supported by stanchions, that encircles the deck
Line - any length of rope that has a specified use
Longitude - distance in degrees east or west of the meridian at Greenwich.
Luff - the forward edge of a sail
Mainmast - the tallest of two masts on a boat
Mainsail (Pron. mains'l) - the sail hoisted on the after side of the mainmast
Mast - the wooden or aluminium pole supported by standing rigging.
Masthead - the top of the mast
Masthead (Steaming) Light - located about two-thirds of the way up on the mast
Maststep - the support for the bottom of the mast
Nautical Mile - Nm = 1,853 metres = 2,000 yards = 6,080 feet Contrary to some earlier replies, a nautical mile is (or was) the length of a minute of latitude at the latitude in question, not at the equator.
Navigation lights - that are illuminated at night
Neap Tides – Low tides, coming at the middle of the moon`s second and fourth quarters.
Outhaul - a sail control that secures the clew of boomed sail
Painter - a bow line on a dinghy
Pendant (Pron. pennant)
Personal Floating Device PFD - term for a life jacket or other approved item to support flotation
Point - to sail close into the wind
Port (1) left side of boat looking forward; (2) a commercial harbour
Porthole - a small round window
Preventer - a line that prevents a boom from jibing accidentally
Pulpit - a stainless-steel guardrail around the bow
Pushpit - a stainless-steel guardrail around the stern
Quarter – i) part of a vessel`s side between the after part of the main chains and the stern, ii) the wind is said to be quartering, when it blows in a line between that of the keel and the beam.
Racer-Cruiser - a boat comfortable enough for cruising and fast enough for racing
Race - strong, rippling tide.
Rig - the spars, standing rigging and sails
Rode - the anchor line (chain and/or rope)
Roller furler - a device for rolling a sail for storage while still in the rigging
Rudder - an underwater board that is adjusted by helm to steer the boat
Running Lights – Navigation lights required to be shown on boats underway between sundown and sunup.
Safety harness - worn on the upper body and attached to the deck with a tether
Sail Controls - lines, tackles, and other gear to hold a sail in position and adjust its shape
Scope - ratio of the length of an anchor line, from a vessels bow to the anchor, to the depth of the water.
Scupper - deck or cockpit drain
Sea Anchor – a device used to reduce a boats drift before the wind.
Seacock - valve opening and closing a pipe through hull valve, a shut off on a plumbing or drain pipe between the vessel`s interior and the sea boat.
Seaworthy - able to survive heavy weather
Shackle - U shaped connector with a pin or bolt across the open end.
Sheave - wheel in a block upon which the rope works.
Sheet - primary sail control line which pulls the sail in and out
Short line - a short length of wire or line used as an extender
Shroud - side stay or a line or wire running from the top of the mast to the spreaders, then attaching to the side of the vessel.
Skeg - small fixed fin attached to the underbody near the stern
Sloop - a single-masted boat that flies one jib at a time
Sole - a cabin or cockpit floor
Spar - any mast, boom or spinnaker pole
Speed - the theoretical maximum speed of a displacement hull through the water.
Spinnaker - a light ballooning sail
Springs - highest and lowest course of tides, occurring every new and full moon.
Sprayhood - a fold up or fixed spray shield at the forward end of the cockpit
Spreader - an athwart ships strut holding shrouds out from the mast and providing lateral support
Stanchions - metal posts supporting lifelines
Starboard - the right side, facing forward
Starboard Tack - vessel is on the starboard tack, or has her starboard tacks on board, when she has the wind on her starboard side.
Stay - a wire supporting the mast
Stem - stiff behind, towards the stern
Stern - the aftermost part of a boat
Stern Gland - a coupling between an engine's gearbox and driveshaft
Stuffing Box - the place where the drive shaft exits the hull
Tacking - changing a boat's direction when sailing into the wind
Toe Rail – a small rail around the deck of a boat, the toe rail may have holes in it to attach lines or blocks.
Topping Lift - a line or wire that holds up the boom or spinnaker pole
Transom – makes the stern
Traveller - an athwart-ships’ running tracks on which slides a car connected to the main-sheet blocks.
Trim - Fore and aft balance of a boat.
True Wind – the actual direction from which the wind is blowing
Turnbuckle - a threaded fitting used to adjust a stay's length
Variation - angular difference between the magnetic meridian and the geographic meridian at a particular location.
Weather or Lee Beam - direction to windward or leeward, at right angles with the keel.
Winch - a geared drum turned by a handle used to pull halyards, sheets and other lines under strain
Windlass - special type of winch used for pulling the anchor rode
Yacht - a pleasure boat
Yawl - swing off course, as when due to the impact of a following or quartering sea.

Is A Third Reef Necessary?

For Cryptic this season (2012) I have had a fully battened mainsail put on a new ZSpar mast and boom. Its been hard work putting up the mainsail and getting the reefs sorted. I thought I had it straight away - two (first and third) on the port clutches and the second on the inside starboard clutch. Turns out this is correct but the one I assumed was the first reef was actually the third (it is the first if you count up the mast!).

I am a bit clearer now but fitting the foot of the reef rings around the 'rams-head' is hard work - especially as you have to go on deck to do this. I need to remember to keep all the reef sheets running free too ... especially as when hauling up the main halliard.

Do I think I need three? I am not sure. The boat soared up the Sound of Mull (less than four hours!) under mainsail only, when the second reef was in ... in about 20 knots of wind.

Still, early days.

Below is an article I found of interest and am re-publishing it again here. I have changed nothing and all the work is John Vigor's - see http://www.johnvigor.com/Welcome.html

http://johnvigor.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01/is-third-reef-necessary.htmlJanuary 27, 2011

Is a third reef necessary?

EVERY NOW AND THEN some cruising sailor gets caught out in a gale and comes home wondering out loud if the mainsail should have a third reef. The advice comes pouring in from all sides, and it’s usually contradictory and confusing.

Racing skippers will tell you they never reef. Well, hardly ever. But it’s different for them. They don’t care if their mainsails flog themselves to bits on the beat. They’re going to buy new sails next season anyhow. And they’ve got large muscular crews with highly developed clinging powers, so they won’t fall overboard when the boat broaches and the mast hits the water.

Some sailmakers aren’t much use, either. A contributor to one bulletin board I read recently said his sailmaker simply refused to put a third reef in the mainsail for his 26-foot full-keeler. “He said the extra sailcloth and grommets involved would screw up my main's light-air performance. I would add too much ‘stuff’ (weight, hardware, etc.) up high, where I don't want it. And would not let the leech open up properly in light air.” Well, to put it delicately, this is pure poppycock, of course. That sailmaker has been brain-washed by racing skippers.

However, I personally don’t believe a boat of average displacement under 35 feet in length is going to benefit from a third reef in storm conditions in the open ocean. Perhaps that reef might help in calm water near shore, but it’s not going to generate enough power to push a boat to windward in the big seas a storm generates.

My preference is for two oversized reefs on a boat of that size, and when things become too hectic for the second reef you have three choices: lie a-hull, heave to under a main trysail, or run off, either under a storm jib or under bare poles.

Now when it comes to bigger boats, a third reef can make sense. The difference here is that a big boat not only finds it easier to carry its way against big waves, but it also can carry comparatively more sail to drive it to windward. That’s because stability (hence the power to carry sail) increases as a cube of the boat’s length, while the force of the wind increases only as a square of its speed.

So, while a 40-footer is only 62 percent longer than a 25-footer, it can carry 410 percent more sail for the same degree of stability. That means a third reef in a 40-footer is comparatively much bigger than a third reef in a 25-footer, and is thus able to generate a comparatively greater amount of power.

I once had a third reef added to my main on a 31-foot heavy displacement sloop. I went through seven gales with that boat and never used my third reef once. I thought it would substitute for a main trysail, but by the time the third reef was down, the center of effort had moved too far forward. The heavy wind against the mast and rigging simply blew the bows off and she wouldn’t heave to. That’s what a trysail is all about. It gets sail area well aft, so the stern will blow to leeward and the boat will end up lying pointing at an angle of 60 or 70 degrees off the oncoming wind and waves. That’s the safest, most comfortable position until the boat starts to be picked up bodily and hurled down sideways.

Finally, let me repeat the three basic rules of thumb about the timing of reefing:
1. Reef before you have to.
2. When sailing downwind, reef in the same wind speed you would if you were beating. (Not easy either to judge or to do, but very necessary.)
3. When in doubt, go straight to the double reef.

Today’s Thought
The tempest’s howl, it soothes my soul,
My griefs it seems to join;
The leafless trees my fancy please,
Their fate resembles mine.
— Burns, Winter: A Dirge

Boaters’ Rules of Thumb, #152
WHEN to reef? Before you lose control. On the wind, the signs are pretty obvious: sidedecks awash, dreadful weather helm, and lack of response to the helm. Downwind, watch for prolonged surfing and a sloppy, dead feeling to the helm when a waves passes underneath the stern. Time to slow down.

Après moi, le déluge
I’M PLEASED and astonished to report that new Followers have been flocking around in hordes to compensate for the fickle Follower who left me for greener pastures (long may he rot). The Follower count is now up to a record 37. I am a happy man.

Tailpiece
“Hey, do me a favor, willya? Stick your head out the window and see if my turn signals are working.”
“Okay.”
“Well, are they working?”
“Yes — no — yes — no — yes — no —”

(Drop by every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, for a new Mainly about Boats column.)
Posted by John Vigor at 10:07 PM
Labels: boating, cruising, humor, reefing, sailing, Vigor
5 comments:

Bursledon Blogger said...

our Van de stadt 34 had three reefs,and hove to perfectly for 48 hours in a mid Atlantic gale, was also useful sheeted right in hard as a steadying sail with twin headsails going down win, would stop the rolling.

Your experience with a Nic 31 probably says more about the boat than the sails - having tried both types I'm convinced that medium to light displacement and traditional hull from i.e narrow transom is the best all round cruising boat. i'm sure others will disagree
29 January, 2011
John Vigor said...

Hi Bursledon B:

Yes, I would agree with you that moderation in all respects is the way to go with a cruising boat. The extremes of very light displacement and very heavy displacement often have more cons than pros. And Van de Stadt knew what he was doing when he designed the 34. Very nice boat.
Have to say, though, that I'm always astonished when people in foreign countries reveal what they know about me. It wasn't actually a Nicholson 31 that I owned, but it was a very close relative, a Performance 31 designed by Angelo Lavranos.

Cheers,

John V.
29 January, 2011
Ben said...

My 26 footer ended up with 4 reefs (long story), One to many, but I used the 4th reef alot around Wellington, across the Tasman and then around Tassie. (3.5 hp outboard so really needed to sail in strong winds).

I delivered a 28 footer back to NZ with only two deep reefs... couldn't get the groove right, either too much sail or not enough, really wished I had three moderate reefs.

Saying that neither boat had roller reefing headsails so I used the main as my throttle. I reef and unreef often, sometimes a couple of times per watch to keep in that nice comfey groove just below hull speed were the windvane works best.

Give me three reefs on any sized sloop or cutter designed for offshore.

I enjoy your writing John, and love the black box theory, I apply it alot in real life, it's probably saved me a few times..

Cheers

Ben
31 January, 2011
John Vigor said...

Hi Ben:

Yes, most of us are inclined not to fine-tune the exact amount of reef, as you do with such dedication. Most of us are content to be a bit underpowered and get nowhere fast. But you're absolutely right about the need for a good amount of sail area in strong winds, especially in the tough seas you seem to be sailing in, between OZ and NZ. Your frequent reefing and unreefing is certainly earning you points in the black box.

Cheers and best wishes,

John V.
01 February, 2011
s/v Windward said...

Windward, my Herreshoff 26 (OK, it's a Chrysler, perhaps the Rodney Dangerfield of sailboats, but Halsey was the hired gun and she sails very, very well) has three fairly deep reef points, each reducing the 26 ft luff by 4 ft.

On my local mountain lake I'm able to use the 3rd reef a couple of times each winter, when winds are 20-25 kt or more. I don't have pretenses to sailing offshore, but do sail on North Carolina's Pamlico Sound, and up to 25 miles offshore (but inside the gulf stream) from Ocracoke to Cape Fear. I was thankful for the 3rd reef a couple of years ago on Pamlico Sound during several days of small craft advisories, making 5.4 to 5.8 kt upwind using that and about 40 sq ft of headsail. The waves were only 4-6 feet despite the 25-30 kt breeze, so there was no problem getting enough clear air to move the boat. Downwind that sail combination kept me above hull speed most of the time, and I could not have carried more sail safely.

Sailing 20-25 miles offshore south of Cape Lookout, I have found it challenging to keep the boat moving when heavily reefed, and have had to carry more sail than I anticipated. I've had the luxury (good fortune? good sense?) of avoiding gale conditions there, so don't yet know whether the third reef would be effective for me then.